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    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
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      <image:title>About</image:title>
      <image:caption>Me 1986 with a 1964 Gretsch Jet Firebird.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>About</image:title>
      <image:caption>Playing a 1967 Telecaster Custom in 1991.</image:caption>
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    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Contact - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Services - Mods &amp; Upgrades</image:title>
      <image:caption>Little things can make a big difference Pickup upgrades, new pots, coil-tapping, wiring upgrades, shielding, machinehead replacement, bridge &amp; tremolo upgrades, tremolo blocking. Drop me a message and we can discuss what’s right for you.</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Services - Repairs &amp; Refurbs</image:title>
      <image:caption>I can help you with: Re-stringing Set-Ups Re-fretting Fret dressing Truss rod adjustment Intonation setting Nut replacement …and more, get in touch!</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Services - Conversions &amp; Builds</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fancy a change? Vintage restorations Spraying and refinishing Relic finishes  Parts aging Custom builds …and more!</image:caption>
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    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/gasfx-pedals</loc>
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    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
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    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/gasfx-pedals/pedals</loc>
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    <lastmod>2021-03-21</lastmod>
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    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/gasfx-pedals/kits</loc>
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    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/gasfx-pedals/p/drive-thru-overdrive-pedal</loc>
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    <lastmod>2023-10-25</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1614195063077-YY1MF5BWK3UF5KH1GPS2/DSC_0029.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>GASFX PEDALS - Drive-Thru Overdrive (Pedal)</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1614195084575-9YEWMK2PZ76N0I9XLNGN/DSC_0036.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>GASFX PEDALS - Drive-Thru Overdrive (Pedal)</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/gasfx-pedals/p/drive-thru-overdrive-kit</loc>
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    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2023-10-25</lastmod>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1616325279077-6LKEJSKXDTV8D3DJX69L/DSC_0016+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>GASFX PEDALS - Drive-Thru Overdrive (Kit)</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1616325278811-TOFMKAWJ08B13I7M6AHW/DSC_0036.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>GASFX PEDALS - Drive-Thru Overdrive (Kit)</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work</loc>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/les-paul-burst-to-goldtop-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-03-19</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1616188594098-UCVR0H073HHUXPAJ74EV/IMG_7504+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/dbfecef2-04df-442e-960f-5b54770b5537/Pic+1+-+Trapeze+Lineup.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The original bushing holes have been plugged and sanded level with the top, and a trapeze tailpiece is fixed to the strap button hole. This allows the guitar to be strung up so the bridge location can be established.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/931e7d30-0235-495e-9267-ec7f08f213db/Pic+2+-+Drilling+Bushing+Hole.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A pillar drill is used to make the holes for the wraptail bridge studs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a994e10b-0f90-4bde-b690-9ed684e3e1d5/Pic+3+-+Body+Cradle.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A cradle is made to secure the guitar body and provide a platform for the pickup hole router template.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/62828fde-f882-413d-85bd-14bbfe7287a0/Pic+4+-+Bridge+Hole+Routed.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plug hole for the bridge has bee routed and it extends beyond the edges of the humbucker rout and the ring screw holes.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/49ad46de-104f-431a-be1b-6a39d5c6d484/Pic+5+-+Both+Holes+Routed.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Both holes have now been routed and the plugs can now be glued in.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/23b9458d-56d7-4ce9-8d05-36828baf1089/Pic+6+-+Plugs+Clamped.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Pic 6 - Urea formaldehyde glue is used for the plugs and they’re clamped in position as the glue sets overnight.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7760f10a-990c-48e8-b793-2ef275eef5a4/Pic+7+-+Plugs+Done.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plugs are sanded level with the top. There are some small gaps that are filled with 2-pack filler, but the veneer top will cover all of this. The guitar is also strung up to confirm that the bridge location is correct.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/03550629-38eb-4b72-b721-da869627a7c6/Pic+8+-+First+Frets+In.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The fretboard and fretboard binding are removed and a refret is performed with tall early 50s style fret wire. Veneer is also glued to the rear of the fretboard to make the neck depth closer to 1954 Gibson spec.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1840103f-23d2-4064-a4e3-f641ec75d7dc/Pic+9+-+Bagged+Up.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A single piece of veneer is cut to size and glued over the maple cap using urea formaldehyde glue and a vacuum press.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/2fee6f63-ef3c-457c-8585-6176718c407d/Pic+10+-+Binding+Taped.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The glued veneer is trimmed flush with edge of the binding channel and new binding is glued on and held with binding tape.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3b243c8f-ad26-42ed-8849-8301693c07ce/Pic+11+-+Binding+Scraped.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The binding is scraped flush with the sides and top, and the veneer is sanded smooth.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b12c50aa-dbc4-40e3-86bf-44f2417c8593/Pic+12+-+Dots+Done.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fresh binding is applied to the fretboard and binding nibs are rough cut. New position dots are made from a celluloid guitar pick.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c652a556-7241-48f7-8f1b-3b3c71772efa/Pic+13+-+Neck+Before.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the fretboard glued back on, the Greco neck profile is compared with templates made from a 1954 Goldtop. Some wood needs to be removed from the shoulder area, where the template is touching the neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/13f49da3-f5ee-4b2e-989d-991e162b9fac/Pic+14+-+Neck+After.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Just a little bit more needs to come off the shoulder area, but the profile is now an almost perfect copy of a 1954 Gibson neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7658ded2-cc7f-47bb-947c-7877dac01c4f/Pic+15+-+Zip+Forstner.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Placing the covers under the strings establishes the pickup positions. Before routing, I hog out some of the wood using a forstner bit.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/2d50eca8-e2aa-4a36-a53a-a51d148e4d5c/Pic+16+-+Routs+And+Holes.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The pickup holes are done and I’ve replicated Gibson’s routing pattern at the bottom of the cavities. But some alterations have been made because Greco didn’t rout a diagonal channel for the pickup and witch wires.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e89d7d35-9150-4a6d-9fee-23d0428d91a8/Pic+17+-+In+The+Raw.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The guitar is reassembled and tested prior to re-spraying and it’s immediately apparent that it’s going to sound fantastic.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/aea21734-a8bb-4620-8ff1-3c6ebd83ed44/Pic+18+-+Back.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The Greco has a three piece back, with pieces grafted on at the edges. It also has a stacked heel. To hide the joins, I decide on a shaded dark back rather than the historically correct natural brown finish.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/67acb8c4-52e6-4015-9190-efc0f37b01ee/Pic+19+-+Goldtop+Before.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Like the formula Gibson used, Manchester Guitar Tech’s Goldtop lacquer contains bronze powder. Here the gold has been applied and then covered with tinted clear coats.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/089b86e5-2dbf-4f5a-a2e0-9204483cb45a/Pic+20+-+Clingfilm.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Oxidising the gold lacquer gives it a darker and greener hue. To do this I cover the top with tissue paper and pour over a solution of diluted ammonia, vinegar and salt. The paper helps to distribute the liquid evenly and prevent it from pooling.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a7c10d2f-9c08-4ffb-960e-1e83f1ce9941/Pic+21+-+Clingfilm.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>To prevent the liquid from drying, I wrap the body in clingfilm and leave it overnight.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/70d2f343-70b6-434b-8cd5-c8212a6f49a1/Pic+22+-+Finished+Checking+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>After the denting and lacquer checking processes, the finish begins to resemble an old Goldtop.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/180253a3-7ecb-4585-8922-a416941f57c8/Pic+23+-+Finished+Checking+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul "Burst" to Goldtop Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The Goldtop looks much darker after the oxidising process, but it’s worth noting that the shade of gold varied through the 1950s, with some Goldtops appearing dark and greenish, while others are paler and more of an orangey yellow.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/gretsch-anniversary-to-6210-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613221717128-5Y21Z0KO45VTHC2MDK5K/Pic+29+-+Finished+2+15.36.17.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This was a very personal project that was all about creating the Gretsch I’ve been dreaming about since the 1980s. Although I’m not in the habit of naming guitars, I’m calling this one Clyde because it’s so big and orange. I’ve learned a lot along the way, and greatly enjoyed the whole process.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5d5c7b1d-1df4-41a6-81fc-e0e403ad0589/Pic+1+-+Pre+restoration.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Single Anniversary was originally two-tone green and would have missed out on trestle bracing by just a few months. The guitar arrived stripped and stained, as you can see here, and was pretty much unplayable.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/114e36aa-4c0b-4566-b569-115e739465e8/Pic+2+-+Fingerboard.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The rosewood fretboard was in a terrible state. Deep divots had been filled with some light coloured paste and then painted black to ‘hide’ the repairs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/6ac3d86e-5f16-4234-9ba1-f8d51b2f3d59/Pic+3+-+Screw+coming+out.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With vintage Gretsches of this era, neck removal always begins by taking out the neck screw.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/6281d9b2-ba28-4c3d-aec4-52e7c3ef5760/Pic+4+-+Steam-in.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Holes are drilled into the neck joint and steam is injected via a special needle. The pooping water has to be wiped off continually as the steam softens the old hide glue.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ee985235-7074-4e9f-8882-d67686193e61/Pic+5+-+Dovetail+cleanup.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A craft knife blade is used to scrape the still-soft glue off the body and neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c211cbf2-3ea7-4bf9-a9c0-531d6abd64b0/Pic+6+-+Lifting+the+board.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A hot clothes iron, some palette knives and a lot of patience and care are needed to seperate the fretboard from the neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/00fff884-5e8d-4e99-8e4f-27f7a15d6308/Pic+7+-+Cleaned+headstock.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The original headstock veneer has to be replaced because it is stained black and has four nail holes for the Anniversary metal badge.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9d8a959b-c8b7-4785-8a10-20523157e196/Pic+8+-+All+in+one+piece.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Unusually for a Gretsch, there is no binding rot and I’m able to remove both pieces intact.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d2849e3f-ecfd-48c4-ba7d-b379582af64c/Pic+9+-+Top+off.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Working my way around the top with a hot iron and a palette knife, the top comes off quite easily.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/4b15235d-e567-446f-ace6-678fa635d533/Pic+10+-+Underside+of+top.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>On the underside you can see the parallel top braces and the ‘popsicle’ braces that bridged the F-holes. Gretsch glued paper to the back of these to prevent lacquer from getting inside the body. Once the guitar was sprayed and polished, the popsicles were snapped off and the bits of wood and paper were removed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8b934c21-3f4b-4da4-965d-6abba43ad62f/Pic+11+-+Sanding+through+the+divots.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>There’s no way this Brazilian rosewood board is going to waste. Instead, I use a radius block to sand past the divots and create an accurate 9.5” radius.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/546efdbc-7bd3-4eda-b624-47eb5d7ef94a/Pic+12+-+Board+sanded.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The board is looking good but its thickness has to me made up by gluing veneer onto the rear surface and I’ll have to deepen the routs for the ‘thumbnail’ markers.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/efe51bf9-b6bc-463f-9810-dd73f4862091/Pic+13-+Truing+the+board+edge.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The fretboard edges were very worn and damaged so I trim off approximately 1mm using a table router. This trues up the back veneer, cleans up the edges and creates the space needed for the fretboard binding.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d63d4849-7441-40aa-8e56-f02e35379b27/Pic+14+-+Fingerboard+done.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The markers are back in and the binding is glued on. 6120s had ebony fretboards, but I prefer rosewood so this is going back onto the guitar.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/aeb91f58-0a10-4c28-865d-728f69d03f60/Pic+15+-+Headstock+done.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The peghead veneer is actually vintage Gretsch stock, and you can still buy these from time to time.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1a470418-e4c3-4a27-83f1-fccc8e719d2c/Pic+16+-+Bound+headstock.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Binding the headstock is tricky, but I’m pleased with the result and I like the hint of flame in the veneer.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e945ecff-399a-40a4-b3d4-bf4c6f8006eb/PIc+17+-+F+Hole+Patch.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Did you notice the broken F-hole in the previous photos? It’s about to be repaired by grafting on this patch.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8ffc6a17-3617-4bf7-9297-ea1f24ce4533/Pic+18+-+F+Hole+Template.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>My friend Daniel Nicholas provided this photo of his 6120, which I printed to scale. Notice the subtle differences between the shapes of Gretsch’s bound and un-bound F-holes. I’m about to correct that.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3e6d81ef-dad4-4ab6-8a50-5290c6fc6a45/Pic+19+-+Finished+F+hole.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here’s the repaired F-hole after it has been cut to the required shape. Once the underside is tidied up and the top has been veneered, the repair will be invisible.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b81944e4-a8e2-447a-adfd-43b92414ac56/Pic+20+-+Cut+Out.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>After much searching, I’m able to source some wide sheets of curly maple veneer. I use a cutout of the body shape to decide which section I want to use.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1d9a5ac1-41a9-4747-a913-0c8ca35a20ca/Pic+21+-+In+The+Press.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>My friend Patrick Alexander helped me with the top veneer and we used his vacuum press. I learned a lot that day and I’ve since veneered a couple of LP style guitars.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/2f4b4d8a-8a8d-40cf-a53a-d260542d9397/Pic+22+-+Finished+Binding.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The F-holes are veneered and the binding is bent into the centre notches of the holes rather than cut - just as Gretsch did it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8a2b4f6f-a3de-4811-8fa7-6d6b1cdbef49/Pic+23+-+Braces+%26+Feet+Complete.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>These trestles are made from 100 year old pine boards and they’re the most crucial structural feature in a 6120 conversion.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bb2f0d29-6d6e-41b9-8744-7179c5ea018f/PIc+24+-+Top+Clamped-2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Getting the top back on is a complex procedure. First the trestles have to be glued to the top braces, then the trestle feet have to be contoured to the curve of the back and glued down. The trestles themselves have to be the perfect depth and they have to be glued at the same time as glue is applied around the edges. You’ll need a lot of clamps too.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fefbe0c3-7bf3-4164-9456-596151bbe45e/Pic+25+-+Clamp+on.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With new binding in the body, I head back to Patrick’s workshop where we reset the neck using hide glue. The strings are there to ensure everything lines up correctly and we have sufficient back angle.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/cfcba42c-4903-451a-a1f9-914e5f9d462a/Pic+26+-+Pickup+Rout.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The neck pickup hole has to be altered for a Filter’Tron pickup and a second pickup hole has to be cut for a bridge pickup.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5e0507e1-94b4-4ce8-86ca-c3b3ebd89e33/Pic+27+-+Spraying+Shot.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The reassembled guitar is stained to my preferred shade of faded orange and sprayed with clear and tinted clear top coats of nitrocellulose lacquer.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/47a6da6b-e7f4-4560-8773-15c903aa081e/Pic+29+-+Finished+2+15.36.17.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The finished guitar has several vintage parts, including the Filter’Trons, V-cut Bigsby and Waverly tuners. The pickguard and bracket are vintage too, but I had to make the ‘signpost’ logo and spray the pickguard and pickup rings. The knobs are relic’d repros and Patrick Alexander made the bar bridge to fit on the original wooden base.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/28e0bdd6-3241-4c40-8c9c-a601462fa238/Pic+28+-+Finished+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Gretsch Anniversary to 6210 Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This felt like the project that would never end but here it is. It was never my intention to make a historically accurate 6120 replica. Instead I opted for a ‘hot rod’ wiring setup with a 3-way switch, and master volume and no-load tone pot. I also retained the rosewood fretboard and nut because I don’t like zero frets.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/les-paul-refinish-relic</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613165192255-C2J9E1E3VDWRIMD70YEQ/Pic+12+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is my first serious attempt at replicating a late 1950s-style sunburst finish and I am pleased with the outcome. The finish will continue to age naturally and I may decide to do a bit more relic’ing at some point, but for now I’m just going to enjoy playing this guitar again.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/cf881eda-443f-4e28-8b35-eba89c3197fb/Pic+1+-+Veneer+Sheets.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Bookmatched sheets of curly maple veneer are glued together before fixing onto the body.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5e1c2cc5-0de9-4e61-b220-e4614447da51/Pic+2+-Vac+Press.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The yellow masking tape strengthens the edges and the pale masking tape is fixed across the centre join before the body goes into the vacuum press.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b93522f5-a387-4876-85bb-8da1b7322a2e/Pic+3+-+Veneer+On.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Cascamite glue proves a better choice than cold press veneer glue and the centre join survives the process intact.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/369879b7-4f56-4ca2-9538-aa035db430ab/Pic+4+-+Veneering+Finished.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The veneer is trimmed and the holes re-established to ready the body for binding and final sanding.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/09be3b72-0d6e-43db-a4eb-9c49eb7ae405/Pic+5+-+Binding+On.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The binding has to be heated to bend around the cutaway and horn, with tape ans surgical tubing holding it in position as the binding cement dries.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/09115d00-e29d-464f-ae84-ed47f9ad0fbf/Pic+6+-+Grain+Filler.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Dartford’s thixotropic cherry red grain filler is applied to the mahogany before spraying because mahogany is an open pore wood.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ade5c48a-34bc-44c9-ab5f-ba01c5806de2/Pic+7+-+Back+Sprayed.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>After grain filling, stray bits of filler have to be cleaned off the binding.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1fbba28d-8536-4b9d-814b-da23c21c60e0/Pic+8+-+Binding+Cleanup.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The contrast between the sprayed masking tape and the clean piece show how much aniline red has been sprayed onto the body and neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3110b7a6-5e60-4ecf-8896-9093d5b0a051/Pic+9+-+Spraying+Equipment.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The Preval sprayer is used for the aniline yellow and the airbrush is used for shading the edges and applying the aniline red.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/15f7a4e8-103d-4187-aa9a-5a1ac07d8411/Pic+10+-+Aniline+Yellow.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>After achieving a level surface with cellulose sanding sealer, the bursting process begins with two coats of aniline yellow.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d635e475-81d5-4c91-8e24-9be63e569d9f/Pic+11+-+Shaded+Edges.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Blue, brown and black are mixed to apply a shading coat around the edges, which results in a greenish grey shadow.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/54d54065-a5ab-4b83-a301-623c5a0ce58b/Pic+12+-+Burst+Complete.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The airbrush is perfect for applying the aniline red because its fine atomisation creates a very smooth transition and it’s easy to direct the lacquer exactly where you want it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/19b4e908-7b04-4d3f-9656-87c656cf8345/Pic+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The fading becomes visible after only a few hours, but the whole process takes several days to complete.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9bb784ef-3cf9-49bd-85a9-e4c31d7bffc9/Pic+6+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Reassembling the guitar before spraying the tinted clear coats allows it to fade quicker and be played during the night.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8309ffa1-fc55-4653-8f62-8c4a2efed95e/Pic+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The jar on the left contains ‘clear’ lacquer and the jar on the right contains the same clear lacquer after a week in the sun.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/38c2b106-8d8b-4d3c-bd02-b057139bfc78/Pic+4.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>A stone and mallet are used to chip lacquer along the edge of the body and the area on the left has been stained and wax polished.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9c2595f8-47d7-4b44-b90b-066cb78d3680/Pic+5.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Having a genuine Burst to use for reference is a massive help, but the chipped areas need wax and stain.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f01a4512-378f-4b3d-b82c-7f84288c0adf/Pic+6.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The chipped and relic’d edge combines with visible checking lines and the red grain filler shows through the faded cherry lacquer</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/98e5fda9-3f8f-4bd8-879d-2ff0480c5887/Pic+7.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Scraping, sanding, staining and buffing the ‘playwear’ area creates a smooth and natural look</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0ab74192-0758-49b5-9338-7d1c3741dbb7/Pic+8.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The guitar is ready for reassembly and it’s the last chance to see the unfaded cherry in the poker chip, knob and pickguard areas.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f89587a8-7934-4070-b94b-c595701cab5a/Pic+9.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Adding dents and chips to the finish before the body goes into the freezer allows the checking lines to form around them.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1503d709-6b37-4733-9780-8d171adeba28/Pic+10.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>The checking lines formed across the body exactly as we had hoped and it’s a lot easier than doing it with a blade.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c96c0e84-1c98-44d2-ad30-4823af01f39e/Pic+11+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Just like the real thing, the checking lines’ visibility varies depending on the viewing angle.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/58c83ee2-02df-484f-82df-f4c377b75401/Pic+11.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/dda358a6-f229-4bbc-be79-3813c35785f5/Pic+12.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>A dark stain has been used to highlight the checking lines in the area around the switch.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/92648a47-e4f0-49e1-b8ce-0a6b08f5af22/Pic+13.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Les Paul Refinish &amp; Relic</image:title>
      <image:caption>Headstock relicing is minimal, but there’s a lot of very fine lacquer checking that will become more obvious in time.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/hofner-violin-bass-restoration</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613163634896-7N5MJI9EQL7POODELQJG/Header+Shot+Edited.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>I’m enthralled by the instantly recognisable 1960s bass tone. It’s incredibly woody, deep and very clear. The Höfner is also very easy to play – even for occasional bassists – and I’m sure the owner is going to have a lot of fun with this 500/1.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3b709bb8-fa6a-41f1-a92a-e9410d0e8eb5/Pic+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>When a bridge is set as low as it can go but the action is too high, it’s a sign something is wrong.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f5efa949-e295-4c89-85a0-7b393f07d9a8/Pic+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>A metal ruler running across the top of the frets hits the side of the bridge and there’s no doubt a neck reset is needed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1006cf1e-1e9a-42f4-8b9e-2adfbf89e3e2/Pic+4.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>A gap between the heel and the body is another sign of trouble.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/2d005cdb-a4d2-458c-8ccc-dd1d6493a0b8/Pic+5.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The gap is so wide a folded piece of printer paper pushes in easily.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f6bb7e71-d203-4aed-a2a0-cc6639d9d0d0/Pic+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The action is unacceptably high and the fretboard is pointing straight at the neck pickup.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5a08349a-71a9-430b-aa15-6eaf5e06abf2/Pic+6.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fret 17 is removed and holes are drilled for a needle to direct steam into the neck joint.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bb28d1d1-3fe7-4c73-926c-129b5b7087d2/Pic+7.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Masking tape protects the body and a flush cut saw is used to break through glue out under the fingerboard extension.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/6a4e939e-8660-4ddd-a346-235340be5251/Pic+8.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The steam needle alternates between the holes and any excess water is immediately wiped away.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/955e6c61-956c-4e34-acc4-2961715526b2/Pic+9.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Earlier Höfners had dovetail neck joints but later in the 1960s they moved to this style of mortice and tenon.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/4a12db27-3e88-49cb-8047-fe06f56fa10e/Pic+10.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Teflon is placed in the fret slot to plug one side of a steam needle hole.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/326b6d1a-245c-4cf4-960a-35540b1c12ae/PIc+11.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rosewood dust and superglue is used to plug the hole and the Teflon keeps the slot clean.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ce081e2e-af7d-470d-a0c2-c5832e6bd465/Pic+12.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>When sanded flush, the plugged hole becomes harder to spot.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fbe7d4a6-96d9-430d-a9d0-783814c7a194/Pic+13.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The 17th fret is reinstalled with the treble side marking still visible, but the needle holes are now hidden under the wire.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c51832e8-7b10-417d-9162-5bb6c8c9f5e0/Pic+14.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The wiring is a bit of a mess so this is an opportunity to tidy things up.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/42aca83a-3f4c-40dd-94f2-285f4b17e1fd/Pic+15.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1968 Höfner Violin Bass Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>This crooked nail presses into a hole drilled into the side of the bridge base to secure the pickguard.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/gibson-330-refurb</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-23</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613160731152-474DKK3FH1EGP39FNJ39/Pic+9+-+Finished+2+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>After cleaning and polishing, the ES-330 is reassembled and set up ready for the new owner.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9bb8fbbd-5e77-4f00-b7e7-d0fbd1741dd4/Pic+1+-+Filthy+Finish+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>The finish has decades of caked on dirt and grease.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/17b977f9-ef29-4873-8bd4-e972a87da735/Pic+2+-+Hardware+Off+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>There’s even more dirt under the pickguard and the hardware is removed to make the cleanup easier.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c827065d-2dd2-4faf-b7c6-2ba552f44f1f/Pic+3+-++Harness+Out+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>If you think the outside is dirty, it’s nothing compared to inside body and all this dust and debris needs to be cleaned off the controls.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/17c9ceaa-6dd8-49d6-b124-cc936ecf4eed/Pic+4+-+Lifting+Marker+Block+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>As usual, the glue holding the celluloid marker has deteriorated and they have begun to lift out of the fretboard.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8b560360-f909-421e-901a-d7681e98245e/Pic+5+-+Masking+Around+Block+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>Placing masking tale around the block markers helps to keep the glue off the fretboard as they’re being stuck back down.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/4e5acb9a-9d4e-4702-a23a-b2d52c760855/Pic+6+-+Board+%26+Frets+Cleaned+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the blocks glued, the frets polished and the fretboard treated with lemon oil, the playing experience is much improved.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/52dfa5f2-7dfd-4775-b32a-5d6d43ebf9e7/Pic+7+-+Tarnished+Nickel+1+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>The nickel hardware is quite dull but it’s in good condition under the dirt.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1e4a026e-5a27-431d-9a85-042e9c6ffc71/Pic+8+-+Cover+Cleanup+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1964 Gibson 330 Refurb</image:title>
      <image:caption>Chrome polish brings the shine back but it’s best to retain a bit of vintage patina by not over polishing.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/epiphone-korina-flying-v-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-03</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613000910353-AYFF44UDIFRNCTXPDTHZ/Finished+Guitar+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
      <image:caption>It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0afe5674-098f-42a5-b007-76f7979ccf14/Pic+1+-+Scraping.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Scraping the finish reveals the two layers and produces good results, but it’s too time consuming.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7abd5ac9-1403-4d59-b5fb-23013821bc9d/Pic+2+-+Heat+Gun+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The heat gun removed the glossy toffee coloured top coats and leaves the yellowish base coat intact.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8cee48a3-577d-4ef6-bff4-3bdc842d1d35/Pic+3+-+Heat+Gun+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The base coat on the left is closer to the colour I associate with 50s Flying Vs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c9333685-6eb4-48ab-8b51-1c7ee1b063e3/Pic+4+-+Ferrules.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The ferrule hole at the top ‘blew out’ all too easily, but all the other ferrules came out cleanly.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9685649c-4f28-4071-a3bb-eb667aa634d7/Pic+5+-+Back+Stripped+%26+Sanded.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The back is stripped, sanded and wiped with white spirit to approximate the eventual colour after spraying.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/df610452-a60d-435b-9481-d37deecbbec9/Pic+6+-+Sanding+Sealer.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Cellulose sanding sealer is sprayed and sanded flat to confirm that it will fill the pits and adhere to the base coat.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/72b6c39f-da92-4e17-9ab0-5c0e3d53d29e/Pic+7+-+Too+Much+Heat.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The scorch marks have been sanded off the wood and a rasp is being used to strip the finish from the damaged side.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a00ca083-1794-4c16-a9e9-80c672b7a489/Pic+8+-+Side+Stripped.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Eventually I'm back to bare wood and it’s sanded and ready for staining.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/07483895-5bf7-4285-ab30-6f2ddd4717a7/Pic+9+-+Side+Stained.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Mixing amber stain with a hint of medium brown results in a decent colour match and I might just about get away with it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e2f3ba68-ab26-4f48-9558-63a28b8c0f38/Pic+11+-+Plugs+Levelled.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plugs are levelled and will be stained, but both should end up hidden once the guitar is completed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b853c218-bee7-4a61-a298-f8cce2fbff16/Pic+12+-+Board+Sanded.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the frets removed and celluloid dots installed, the board is sanded to reveal the attractive colour and grain pattern of pau ferro.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5358cdd9-e585-437c-86c0-f1130734b654/Pic+13+-+Frets+In.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The fret ends will need to be dressed before spraying, but I'm hopeful the neck will feel nicer to play.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/da9cbb6c-2dc9-4ed4-9611-79c2dd3df87c/Swivel+Blades.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Available in store and online from The Range, this swivel bladed craft knife makes cutting curved checking lines a lot easier.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/92abdfc2-c422-45bc-8dfa-b3d92faed845/Trussrod+Slot.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The trussrod adjustment slot has been elongated and it has extra thickness in the area adjacent to the nut to accommodate the cover screw.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/85c46ee6-94df-4884-846a-004b4c884acb/Trussrod+Cover.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Small patches of masking tape are placed onto the headstock to mark the screw positions for the trussrod cover.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b229173c-30bb-4627-b6e2-8f3fceebe3eb/Bridge+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The bridge is a gold plated Gibson Pat. No with nylon saddles.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7c52ec9f-e25f-4766-8a68-55398ed862a6/Pickup.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The pickups used here are a pair of late 1960s Gibson Pat. No. humbuckers that were a lucky find on Reverb.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/4f2b7bf8-a4b4-4609-8f3e-0f22a3941efe/Parts+Ready+For+Relicing.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plastic and gold plated parts are Epiphone items, but the V plate is custom made from solid brass.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b8ffc656-6df2-4437-bd77-12ad2da7a9f2/Relic%27d+Metal+Parts.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>After a rub down with a Brasso pad, a dip in PCB etchant and a rinse in water, the metal parts are set aside to dry.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/375af619-65dd-49c1-a4fa-8cdab4fb997c/Pickguard+warping.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Matches are placed between the screws, a paint stripper gun softens the plastic and the screws are torqued down to simulate pickguard warping.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9ab5b92e-d941-4c25-bd1e-2f75dccfe87e/Wiring.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This guitar is being fitted with three 500K pots from 1964 and an old Bumblebee tone capacitor, and here I'm about half way through the job.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e6d7f4e0-4747-40a4-8003-c7a81556b946/Headstock+Front.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The headstock gets a repro trussrod cover and some relicing in the shape of checking lines and edge chips.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5a9cc542-13f5-4b4a-a707-45a8e15db951/Headstock+Rear.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The checking lines are less apparent on the rear of the headstock, but the vintage Klusons work smoothly and really look the part.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e56c03fb-e281-4281-bcc0-a23491943edc/Knobs.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Although 50s Vs had the earlier style knobs, the mid 60s Vs had reflector knobs like this trio of originals.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/cf2e1d86-a604-4b31-902e-e6f38e69e8e3/Relic%27d+Plastics.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plastics have been dulled with micromesh, warped and stained along the edges.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5c67ed09-f926-448d-90f3-7e240e8cd1ae/Ferrule+Holes.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The Epiphone ferrules sat proud of the surface but on 50s V’s they were deep inside the holes so I shortened them for a vintage look.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fc163518-6c8e-4b2b-933e-5532b2152cd3/Wing+Checking+Detail.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Epiphone Korina Flying V Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>I continue the front and back checking lines over the edges and join them together on the sides.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/1954-fender-stratocaster-replica</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-03-19</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1616190706201-8OGE84X1KB1Q7YVQOA5C/DSC_0026.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1e2e4e92-157b-4d96-a695-1cb998c7fc90/Pic+3+-+Masked+off+scratchplate.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Masked off scratchplate.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fb76eae3-7a54-4f0f-b7d8-40176b2a70fd/Spraying+light+tint.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Spraying the light tint.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/53bdfaa8-fa35-46b1-bc50-5a08c874af6a/Pic+4+-+Artificial+shadow.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>It’s a subtle effect but the ‘shadow’ of the pickguard can be seen after light tint clear was sprayed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/78c27348-3059-4f04-8e1f-438f5bfc806c/Pic+5+-+Wet+sand.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Use a block when you’re wet sanding flat surfaces. We added a drop of washing up liquid for lubrication.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c051bf66-6801-4c03-a296-bc918852fdea/Pic+6+-+Computer+reference+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Try to find a guitar you like the look of and use it as a guide for your project. Coincidentally the picture we chose showed a guitar with similar grain to ours. Here’s the link - http://www.stratcollector.com/scn/base/54.html - we’d like to think we got pretty close. Notice how glossy our body looks before relic’ing.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/408e8dc7-d26d-43b0-9d0e-9f001c5ab99c/Pic+7+-+Dropping+the+keys.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Dropping several bunches of keys on the body created convincingly random dents of various shapes and sizes. Some relicers prefer to put the keys and body in a bag and shake them around, but that didn’t work for us.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5bba7c35-e856-49e2-86c3-15e31ea4ca46/Pic+8+-+Neck+block+after.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>The neck plate is positioned upside down and protected by masking tape before the wear marks are added using micromesh.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/efcd8d46-b80c-44d0-baeb-2a2c0c257d1f/Pic+8+-+Neck+Heel+before.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c7241894-b258-43b5-b3c4-c62784759697/DSC_0066.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>As usual we had to force the lacquer to check with a hot air gun and an aerosol duster. Make sure you add the dents and chips before you do this.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e34de3f9-d013-4c0a-9933-6aa88ee2cd3e/P1010034.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lacquer checking.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/19e3325a-437a-44a2-afdb-8f63878e86a2/Pic+11+-+Backplate.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fender’s move to oblong holes was undeniably a practical improvement, but we couldn’t resist the look of this Retro Vibe spring plate from WD Guitars.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/22409491-3976-49f2-b35a-48a095219748/Positioning+backplate.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>Positioning the backplate.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/12eb0811-2b66-4dd7-8a0f-a4f1a1436341/Pic+12+-+Trem+Block.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>The cost of high quality relic’d parts generally can mount up but we think Kevin Hurley’s trem block is second to none and a genuine bargain. It’s also available non-relic’d.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/71fbc4d8-03eb-4e0d-bb00-7db9b8645630/DSC_0028.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/327ab51c-1591-481f-b81e-7edd93b8e677/Pic+13+-+Pickups+%26+Covers.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1954 Fender Stratocaster Replica</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Shed Vintage ’54 pickup set was lightly relic’d Check out the period correct black potting wax and rounded covers. There’s also a metal induction plate on the bridge pickup for a more Tele-like tone.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/59-fender-bassman</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613242692827-0DCCH4MZ2W7OFZDZCX5M/Pic+15+-+Finished+Amp.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>The finished amp in all its frayed glory, I’m very happy with the results.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/398015d3-6896-4f83-9d63-492d7829ec05/Pic+1+-+Before.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>Although the tweed had some sort of coating, compared to the real thing it looked pale and creamy.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5c6ff57e-2794-413c-86f0-6313cc3c2045/Pic+2+-+Colour+Swatches.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>Six colour swatches made with various lacquer and dyes sitting on a ’59 5E3 cabinet. Make sure you label the offcuts on the rear side so you don’t lose track of which is which.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a4680db2-b388-4ae5-a86b-ed55e2361b46/Pic+4+-+5E3+Colour+Contrast.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>The bottom of this 5E3 is much darker than the sides. Also note that the centre of the side panel is darker than the edges.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/97cc1793-252c-402b-b1ed-ba67ee9d26b2/Pic+5+-+Dismantled+Cabinet.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>When you take a cabinet to pieces, it’s wise to bag and label all the parts.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3b51657a-e90d-43e2-909a-42e2d60d01a1/Pic+6+-+Shellac+Drying-2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>After two coats of ‘transparent’ shellac polish, the cabinet looks slightly mellower. Here it is drying off in the sunshine.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/eddfa87a-d6fe-4f96-bc53-eeff0fd655e8/Pic+7+-+First+Coats+Contrast.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>Some tinted clear has been sprayed onto one of the back panels, and you can already see the contrast between the panel and the unsprayed cabinet.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/32c81f15-d393-489f-b650-341b5b3b95d2/Pic+9+-+Side+Before+Scuffing.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>I tried to replicate the faint ‘burst’ effect on the top and side panels by spraying the tinted coats more heavily around the edges.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5a1f0dc2-adb7-45d4-a49f-277c8a95e91a/Pic+16+-+Top+After+Relicing.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>After several coats of tinted clear and light tint clear, the colour of the Bassman’s cabinet looked very much like the 5E3’s.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/2a256888-5315-4811-8d48-1281bd73ca33/Pic+11+-+Tool+KIt.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>The tool kit for this project is pretty basic. I completed the whole thing with a rasp, file, sandpaper and a Scotch pad. The rasp will need a wire brushing to clean the gunk off its teeth.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e1857327-1e0e-4118-a615-e639325635f5/Pic+12+-+Relicing+Begins.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>Since the finish sits on the surface, it’s easy to scuff through to the paler tweed beneath. The exposed areas looked a bit too pale at this point, so I darkened them with ash and charcoal dust.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f2923446-e6d6-48fa-8b85-252afd87f00e/Pic+13+-+Blacking+The+Baffle.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>Brushing the baffle with some matt black oil paint created a more authentic look.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/91a82e8c-5bb3-486b-95ff-972d873b8eb2/Pic+17+-+Top+Right+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
      <image:caption>The tweed looked a bit bright, so I toned it down by rubbing ash from my barbecue and charcoal dust into the exposed areas. I also rubbed the charcoal dust all over the cabinet and it created dark patches in certain areas.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/154cf10a-9483-46a8-b26d-f41dfbf16d79/Pic+19+-+Bottom+Left.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c518bf63-220d-4d45-9191-ea862a184a0b/Pic+21+-+Control+Panel.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '59 Fender Bassman</image:title>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/fender-tweed-pro-restoration</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2021-02-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1613243794670-3J9R0F6WBIXQSF6U3X01/Pic+17+-+Tweed+On.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bc2a9710-16c1-4fcb-827e-2f8c2ae418f4/Pic+1+-+Tolex+On+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With its drab grey tolex, the Pro looks pretty rough on arrival but it’s mostly original and in great shape.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b23ce0c9-abf7-4619-a3b0-237054183864/Pic+2+-+New+Power+Resistors.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Power supply resistors have a tough life and I recommend changing them for high wattage wire wound types like these Welwyns.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a9004883-5591-407c-a86c-d8be55f820af/Pic+3+-+Re-Tubing+Electrolytics.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The cardboard outer tube has been removed from the silver capacitor to be fitted over the blue Sprague Atom.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d92c3a63-87fb-4a32-9f2b-766b9be0b878/Pic+4+-+Unstuffed+Caps.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>After oven baking the cardboard tubes have been cleaned out, wiped down and are ready to be re-used.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f09b453f-4fcc-4ab6-83a5-d9e3a7ce6e49/Pic+5+-+Printed+Tubes.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>To replace the missing tubes, new ones need to be made.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bf0c098e-c53b-4de0-a2f1-bdfbaee1d90b/Pic+6+-+Caps+Pre-Wax.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>A mix up of original tubes, our freshly rolled repros and some repros after spraying with amber lacquer.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/edeab10e-ef27-407b-a706-11ab48b93cd3/Pic+7+-+Finished+Caps.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With Mallory 150s sealed inside with wax, the repros look pretty similar to the originals.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/df2e4950-1b21-4077-acd9-728662414b8e/Pic+8+-+Astrons.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>These original Astron capacitors coupling the input jacks to the valve grids all test good so they’re left in place.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ac4c1935-8138-4f67-aa20-fdb8ad0d0c08/Pic+9+-+Jensen+Field+Coil.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The bell cover of this Jensen F15N field coil speaker has been altered to fit under the extended late 1951 top panel.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/77acfa22-ed67-408a-b37a-88ea1b9afff8/Pic+10+-+Output+Transformer+Wiring.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The output transformer is mounted onto the speaker basket and the wires are for power as well as audio.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/cf4a7332-ab12-452f-8a98-f3e53e1eac3b/Pic+11+-+Electronics+Complete.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the exception of the white cathode bias resistor, the restored circuit board looks much as it did when new.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0c689ebe-39da-4f55-8ab4-2edc55d9ed41/Pic+12+-+Matches.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>An old grocery store invoice and a full pack of matches are found under the tolex.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/cceebc7d-ba8b-4050-aa87-a3cee2354ec6/Pic+13+-+Tweed+Residue.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Residue on the cabinet shows that the Pro was original covered with low contrast tweed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/6489e9dc-b126-43fb-8b4e-70dabc8285f9/Pic+14+-+Rough+Front+Panel.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The plywood front panel is in a sorry state and the surface will need to be restored before re-tweeding.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/da2f319b-38f9-4593-95b0-6851282a726d/Pic+15+-+Filler.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>2-pack filler is applied over most of the front panel to be sanded flat.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/81b90147-19a6-4412-9649-113b89046b73/Pic+16+-+Tolex+Off.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>At last the cabinet is ready for re-tweeding and the filled areas show up as a light beige against the darker wood.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/28ab647f-51ea-4c41-baf2-a11f2071dc05/Pic+18+-+Panel+View.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The control panel’s chrome plating and silk screening is in fine condition.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e0d016f6-dcdc-4eb3-8541-1f3289a5afb5/Pic+19+-+Back+View+Complete-2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - '51 Fender Tweed Pro Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The original magnet cover fitted onto a repro Jensen P15N but those speaker wires will need to be changed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/chris-buck-clapton-strat</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-03</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1365ed84-db11-4a67-abc1-5c3916b992a9/Finished+5.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b67689b9-7a7c-4c0c-b3ed-5a9dea3e6767/Pre+Restoration+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The innards of the Clapton Strat pre-restoration.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/a149874f-2a1a-4583-b9ac-7a80d59e865a/Pic+1+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The potentiometers include a 50k volume control, a dual-gang tone control and a separate volume for the boost circuit.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7a17ae83-d1db-435d-a5a1-5ed6cca888d9/Pic+2+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Clapton Strats feature this preamp circuit board with four transistors. The original Lace Sensors look a little corroded and there’s no guarantee the electronics are working.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e5bd1bee-72f9-4144-b4db-23bf84cf2e37/Pic+3+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>It turns out that two of the original Lace Sensors are broken so this new set has to be fitted.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d9456e4f-d9fb-4a64-96c7-209c58a34e59/Pic+4+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The new pickups are mounted, with the orange wires connected to the switch and the green and white ground wires connected to the volume pot.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/25de90f9-ce2c-4cfb-8b3a-6353fcaa0ea2/Pic+5+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The ground, signal and battery negative wires are temporarily soldered to a new output socket to test the circuit.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c5288072-f0ca-466b-a3cd-f8dae7fafa8f/Pic+6+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The circuit board is secured with two corner screws and the body ground connection is located just above the coloured wires.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8eda44e6-4dde-44d9-9a97-af5d7c9a9ddd/Pic+7+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The battery wedges into this recess adjacent to the vibrato springs and the plastic cover holds it in place.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1d7c523e-a1d4-42b3-812b-c40e2907d37a/Pic+8+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck Clapton Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fret-bevelling tools with diamond files are used to smooth off the protruding frets and tidy up the bevel before the fret ends are polished with fine abrasive paper and micromesh.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/1965-gibson-non-reverse-firebird-restoration</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-03</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1641241099483-4J3E6V0VQL7H802NP98P/Firebird.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9e79b88b-33bb-456a-a28a-b0b3a9b244cc/Pre+Restoration.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>It arrived with lots of non-original parts and numerous plugged holes showing through a very green Pelham Blue refinish.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/07e179a1-dcaa-44e4-8adb-2cf60c97261f/Pic+1+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>A Gotoh tune-o-matic style bridge has replaced the original unit, but at this stage it’s not certain what bridge was fitted at the factory.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7db8e0ba-de3f-40e9-adb3-a230e88b320a/Pic+2+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>There’s some damage around the bass side bushing and a filled hole showing through the lacquer is evidence of a stop tailpiece.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/669a040c-aaf3-4f16-a48f-8d3a8b4b68ad/Pic+3+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The headstock was modified for three-a-side tuners and although the holes have been plugged, the truss-rod cover still bears the scars.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/db626617-1596-4f2b-afc2-dd14f2fe82cb/Pic+4+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Besides the tone capacitors, all the controls and wiring are intact and the potentiometers date to 1965.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/834d0f97-f853-4b50-b5cb-e81070a92c66/Pic+5+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The toggle switch is old, but is it original? Most Non-Reverse Firebirds had slider switches.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bb326b17-57d4-49a1-8f50-ec6619226df2/Pic+6+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>This guitar badly needed a refret here solder is being applied to conduct heat and melt the glue before extraction.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/38b81ec3-3ca1-403d-a357-3758c9c738bb/Pic+7+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With all the frets removed a 9.5-inch radius block is used to level the fretboard and remove all traces of varnish.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/08c2d482-d951-4e8c-b2be-8b006d1be152/Pic+8+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The new frets are pressed in with fish glue, and the radius block is clamped over the frets to hold them in position as the glue dries.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/65ccec5c-091a-4ff5-9862-961a27083798/Pic+9.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>These fret ends have been bevelled but are not yet rounded or polished when the guitar is strung up for testing.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c19d3c11-867a-4e0d-a283-d28ddaf7ca49/Pic+10.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>First year non-reverse Firebird I models had routed platforms to support the P90 pickups, but these were crudely chiselled off to accommodate a pair of full size humbuckers.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f89370ee-ac82-4770-a14a-39f02d3ecafc/Pic+11.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>A router is used to tidy up the chipped area and provide a flat surface for gluing.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/301af700-3113-4f3e-b05f-323e90ff1a47/Pic+12.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Mahogany blocks are glued in to restore the original appearance and make it as difficult as possible for anybody to attempt a humbucker conversion in the future.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e17c5eeb-b70f-4664-af61-8f81c16f4cdb/Pic+13.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the Gotoh bridge bushing removed, you can see the maple dowel and flat-sawn mahogany plug that was used to fill the original wraptail bushing hole.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5cf6b883-bd63-40c4-8e6d-ae6db67888fe/Pic+14.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Mahogany dowels are shaped and cut to length to fill the tune-o-matic bushing holes, and they’ll be capped with these flat sawn mahogany plugs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/48d0ee4f-69f2-4f61-aaa5-39a676eab27b/Pic+15.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>All the holes have been plugged - seven in total - and this Firebird 1 is now ready for a wraptail once again.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7a7fee63-6472-4a9c-bbec-78aab15fd530/Pic+16.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the Vibrola anchoring the strings, the new wraptail is shimmed on veneer strips and carefully moved into position.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1e1939b1-92db-44ad-9018-ed72fdd4c13e/Pic+17.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>All the flat sawn plugs in the front of the headstock have been glued in and levelled.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1bf046ec-7017-4551-8849-12c03e1e9995/Pic+18.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Five of the rear plugs have been installed and one has been levelled, so there’s only one more to go.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1627118b-6975-4c6c-8a2b-f2d2c3281ac3/Pic+19.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>To prevent the repairs showing through the finish, I’ve veneered the headstock face with mahogany and drilled new holes for six-on-a-strip Kluson style tuners.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/441fa5d4-f6fd-4002-945c-19382890db4a/Pic+20.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The owner specified a light ageing job so, in order to dent the finish, medium-sized bolts are dropped onto the surface rather than bunches of keys.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/eb6eaf66-649d-487c-aa65-bbc06ebf0be5/Pic+21.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>You need a sizeable deep freeze for a set-neck guitar – and Firebirds in particular – but it’s the best way to induce lacquer checking.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/44dfb087-032d-4d04-a0b3-03671baa9e2b/Pic+22.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>After three freeze and thaw cycles, checking lines have formed all over the the non-tinted Pelham Blue finish.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/93533f72-b796-460e-b634-44f9650d7878/Pic+23.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>So far no pugs are showing through the finish, but that might change as the lacquer shrinks back over the next few years.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/435c2342-d913-472d-a748-7802ed95aa09/Pic+24.pg.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The owner specified aged gold hardware so after rubbing down with a Brasso pad, a 9v transformer and a jar of salty water finishes the relic’ing process.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5b506c25-a718-4fd4-865f-12c2089065d5/Pic+25.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>It was decided to keep the Vibrola off the body, but the holes are there and it can be reinstalled at any time.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/eaec9321-8714-4565-805a-b39952979070/Pic+26+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - 1965 Gibson Non-Reverse Firebird Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Firebird tuned out to be incredibly resonant, the neck profile feels wonderful and it sustains for days.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/fender-telecaster-humbucker-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-03</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1641242018654-JBYLZ6456H4YYND2ND4V/Finished+Shot+2+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/248b25f6-d848-48ae-a1a8-889ecf084169/Pic+1+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This Dearnaley Taff Delta Blackguard replica already has a 1953 Fender lap steel pickup at the bridge and now it’s getting a vintage Gibson patent number unit in the neck position.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9770e064-8b37-498b-a65b-0321e9f1e2e3/Pic+2+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Getting the position of the new pickup accurately marked out is crucial to a successful humbucker installation.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/83488f4d-4723-4361-90a6-c988cde9df3c/Pic+3+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The octave harmonic, pickup centre and centre line of the body have been marked and now the routing template is being positioned.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/53157b2d-25d2-42ae-a7f3-dc323d27da22/Pic+4+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Most of the pickup material is cut out using a jeweller’s saw, being careful to cut inside the router template lines.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/17efbfb2-9132-4bff-a30e-a796c26b574b/Pic+5+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The pickguard is reattached to the guitar and the template is fixed on top using double sided tape with the body firmly clamped down.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/b3b7ed00-362f-41fb-8493-e3768bc25d4b/Pic+6+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Once the main cutout is complete, the template is flipped around to deepen the ends of the hole for the brackets and screws.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/88c15c13-38d0-4776-aee8-38a8cba707e1/Pic+7+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Routing the hole with the pickguard in place ensures everything lines up perfectly.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c5467701-a485-440a-8f35-28fd90f6ad65/Pic+8+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The pickup fits perfectly and it’s time for reassembly and rewiring.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/61795050-d59a-41fa-a7be-5f89659b2a20/Pic+9+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Fender Telecaster Humbucker Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Rather than mimic Keith Richards’ Micawber, the humbucker is set back slightly to achieve the neater look of the Terry Reid/Joe Bonamassa Tele.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/bell-howell-filmosound-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-05</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0badd57e-dc83-4998-9682-bd74e9c75ca5/Pic+1+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0badd57e-dc83-4998-9682-bd74e9c75ca5/Pic+1+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ready for action!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/1bb9d7c8-fcb7-473f-ab38-ae46cb401328/Pic+2+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whether you’d describe this as a rat’s nest or ‘point to point’ wiring probably depends on whether you’re buying or selling.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ed9180fd-3051-4542-a9f9-a2f2e4c37ac0/Pic+3+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Space is very tight inside the chassis, tracing the circuit is far from easy and replacing components is even harder.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f336a712-0c08-4e05-bf4b-7bfcd91dba37/Pic+4+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The component choice indicates this amp was assembled in the UK using a chassis and transformers that came from the US, so it runs at 110V.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/59e1f770-8a79-49d5-8821-253a17b9269d/Pic+5+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The speaker connectors and power socket are archaic and will be replaced.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/65cd4d0e-dfa5-4240-98cb-fd787dbb862d/Pic+6+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The value of the tubes arguably exceeded the purchase price of the amp itself, so it was well worth the risk.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/90d25f99-fef2-4e3d-806c-48a7980a23dc/Pic+7+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Filmosounds contain a lot of circuitry that isn’t needed for guitar use and this brown capacitor and large inductor can be removed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d10b4de7-5a21-47ba-8ca3-5d7dbf948c9d/Pic+8+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With the surplus components and wiring removed, it’s much easier to access the mains wiring and replace the Jones socket.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d9470698-3e81-426f-a427-29bb4526e0e2/Pic+9+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A new IEC socket has been installed, the switch and fuse have been moved over to the live side and the no-longer-required yellow transformer wire has been isolated.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/dfa7fd2a-4bf5-4505-9d01-f6dcea5bd3b0/Pic+10+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The new speaker sockets will need to be labelled for 8 and 16 ohms and the IEC socket squeezes in between the 110V voltage label and fuse socket.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/abeed589-2f1a-4f04-b77d-4c0677c628e9/Pic+11+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>These silver capacitors in the tone circuit had to be temporarily removed for a pair of Jupiter caps to be installed.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/59a10736-6379-40db-84a6-912533569e4b/Pic+12+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Another Jupiter capacitor is used in the preamp and shifted to the side, where there’s more space.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f94431b3-5ffc-49c8-aa20-56feb5a75671/Pic+13+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>A selection of the components and hardware that have been removed so far.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/93aa3761-59f5-4e9c-b73b-6a0927f21bcb/Pic+14+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The old jack socket has been removed and the superfluous resistors and capacitors wired to the lamp socket are about to come out to create some space.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/0a9e4eab-8507-4898-8e99-a8a5d7380ff1/Pic+15+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>All the components are taken off the lamp socket and the shielded grid wire is soldered to a new muting input jack. The braided wire should be covered in heat shrink or you can use plastic insulated shielded cable.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ffc291da-1d78-4018-899a-e6368e7039e2/Pic+16+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Sometimes, amp restoration and upgrading is more about removing circuitry than adding to it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/9d18aef8-8e32-4b13-bc98-08f2aab4d8fd/Pic+17+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The original cathode-bias capacitor is disconnected from the 6V6 sockets and a new one is soldered across the sockets in parallel with a 330R resistor.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/3f85565a-93b2-4ede-9fd7-e746f11b22bc/Pic+18+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>These two yellow capacitors replace the originals and the tone control’s functionality improves dramatically.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/820d8a0e-baac-4427-809e-6ccb3ba7a4fc/Pic+19+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>This yellow 120pF capacitor wired across the volume control extends the Filmosound’s upper-frequency response at lower volume settings.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c74189f1-b8be-405e-b285-9a16a1124bda/Pic+20+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>There’s just enough room inside to squeeze in an LED pilot light.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/91fdc478-46f2-4efe-9adb-d683744d39f5/Pic+21+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Bell &amp; Howell Filmosound Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>With its chrome bezel, the pilot looks the part and I can tell at a glance if the amp is switched on.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/chris-buck-1962-fender-strat-restoration</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-05</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/02f0bc7b-a4ad-4ad5-95e4-6807475f882b/Pre+Restoration+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/da0dec3b-a6c5-4f78-ba30-f293ec086aec/Finished+Guitar+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/25e4f0dc-376b-4727-b87b-424894aea1ef/Pic+1++-+Mystery+Switch.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>With three switches cut into the pickguard and an added switch in place of the tone control, I knew things could get ugly.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/836c8f3d-d469-41a4-918d-a86a946759de/Pic+2+-+Mystery+Pot.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>There was even a control pot shaft protruding through into the spring cavity.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/013fbfc3-5866-4d61-a3e9-97e3b34aa74a/Pic+3+-+Mucky+Pickguard.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>It was also apparent that this guitar hadn’t been cleaned in a very long time.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/415570fe-7a30-4cd9-8500-43187c4ebfd7/Pic+4+-+Headstock+Front.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The patina on the peghead looks cool in the photo but in reality, it was a smelly and sticky mess that Chris wanted cleaned off.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/520bac28-2153-4460-9204-3ec777f86b31/Pic+5+-+The+Routs.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lifting the pickguard revealed the extensive scope of the ‘upgrades’ the previous owner had made.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/c79429af-aa05-4644-8377-11f781540146/Pic+6+-+Extra+Switches.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Added switches of this type are common on vintage Stratocasters and it was particularly frustrating because the nitrate pickguard was otherwise in excellent condition.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/7af9d3fa-fd8f-4b22-8fbe-63e7838042d6/Pic+7+-+Grey+Bottom.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>It’s likely that one of the original pickups broke and it was replaced with this late 1970s grey bottom unit - maybe at the same time that 1970s pot metal saddles replaced the originals.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ced9d3fe-41a6-4331-a934-6569abb51f05/Pic+8+-+Black+Bottom.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fortunately, two of the pre-CBS pickups were still there, albeit with some worrying wiring modifications that Matt Bascetta at House Of Tone was able to reverse while preserving the original coils.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/15750948-684e-46b1-9c04-0c93da5f49a8/Pic+9+-+Wiring+Mods.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>My guess is that the original switch had been repurposed as a preset tone switch, with the added toggle switch activating the circuit and the slider switches allocated to individual pickups.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/aaccb3d4-f775-4c6d-9000-808d3b87f72f/Pic+10+-+Removed+Parts.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The removed parts included the original pickup switch, which was cleaned up and carefully preserved because Chris needs a 5-way switch.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bfcd9947-c4d8-4940-8ba5-d4830b4adc24/Pic+11+-+Nut+Out.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The nut came out in one piece and I discovered it was rasied up on paper shims that I removed with a craft knife.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f8aa917f-7c84-460d-9aca-0100885ebe7a/Pic+12+-+Chip+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The third fret was the worst shape, with a massive chip in the rosewood and a slot that was too badly damaged to hold a fret.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fdb03e8f-d2a9-4676-a425-d10d160a4844/Pic+13+-+Filling+Slot.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>To salvage the slot I infilled rosewood strips using fish glue.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ef2d332f-e67a-4088-8d07-d39ff43afa54/Pic+14+-+Filled+Slot.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>After sanding flush, I used the undamaged centre section of the slot to guide my fret saw, and then repeated the process on the other side.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e22bcd11-6c29-4f42-b4c6-5577f0354635/Pic+15+-+Board+Sanding+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The fretboard had been varnished and I carefully sanded it off using a radius block.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/da90c48d-c8d7-4f57-b01c-dcbe7d90ae95/Pic+16+-+Board+Sanding+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Sanding the board highlighted the deep divots and the worst of them, across the first few frets, were later filled with superglue mixed with rosewood.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8d55247c-d5e2-40d9-9daf-76c584e1be35/Pic+17+-+Board+Sanding+3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Board sanding was kept to an absolute minimum because the some intention was to create a level surface for the fretwire rather than to try and eliminate the wear spots.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/02b48b57-f736-4ff7-a9bb-329a01a8f91a/Pic+18+-+Date+Stamp.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The July 1962 date stamp reveal that Chris’ guitar was made during the first month that Fender transitioned to veneer fretboards.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ec572817-bbf2-4f61-b198-4a446ac7fc3c/Pic+19+-+Pot+Restoration.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Both the vintage potentiometers were stripped down, cleaned up and reassembled.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f7fe290a-b651-4f8e-bf0e-d88830089953/Pic+20+-+Finished+Wiring.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>Chris uses his volume control continuously, but rarely touches the tone controls. So it was decided to put the original pots into semi-retirement and install a new volume pot that can be replaced if and when it wears out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d3a7826a-a317-4c31-85e6-7d58d7cce141/Pic+21+-+Tuner+Restoration.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>We didn’t hold out much hope for the original tuners, but after soaking and flushing with naphtha, they worked fine and held tuning perfectly.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/fd85a249-d64f-4e21-9d60-c7fb2770bd3a/Pic+22+-+Finished+Frets.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>I wasn’t entirely happy with the pickguard patches, but I was very pleased with the way the fretboard and frets turned out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/f213758a-53ed-4e82-b86e-ce5de6576441/Pic+23+-+Decal.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>The headstock was cleaned up, taking great care to preserve the decal, and a decision was made to install a new bone nut.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/397f6065-c6f3-4e04-9a61-4f4ae4979397/Pic+24+-+Bridge+With+Knob.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Chris Buck 1962 Fender Strat Restoration</image:title>
      <image:caption>I aged up this set of reproduction saddles to replace the 1970s ones, and relic’d up a tone knob to replace the missing one.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/my-work/tele-to-esquire-conversion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-01-05</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/31c00cd1-2233-43da-abc5-82164aa8e401/Sideways+4+copy.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion - It’s taken a lot of work, but I’m pretty thrilled with the way this project has turned out.</image:title>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/065f51e2-375b-4caa-a71d-14cce70bf48c/Pic+1+-+Before.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The guitar was a very well put together Blackguard replica, with brass saddles, domed knobs and an added humbucker.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/88c8f7e6-6b9d-48b6-81f9-fb0f51bb61dd/Pic+2+-+Original+wiring.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Under the control plate I found some CTS potentiometers and a massive orange drop tone capacitor.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/d675e4aa-8542-40f8-88bb-c048a6cac8d7/Pic+3+-+Stripped+Controls.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The original wiring was removed and the switch and control pots were carefully cleaned up for re-use.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/bb11a8c5-328a-46ba-989c-e79d2047abd7/Pic+4+-+Eldred+Wiring.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>The owned asked me to use the ‘Eldred Mod’ wiring scheme and add a push/pull switch for the coil tap.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/5906c20e-4338-4625-9e8e-d0143b15249c/Pic+5B+-+Shaft+Sleeve+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>I could only find a push/pull with a split shaft potentiometer, but this brass sleeve from Allparts ‘converted’ it to a solid shaft.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/61505f69-ad2e-4c88-8c59-a2ad24532355/Pic+6+-+Bridge.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid fumes were used to age the steel saddles, which were chosen for extra bite and twang.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/e60d6928-58fe-4df1-b999-70b148041f83/Checking+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>After stripping the guitar of all electronics and hardware, I placed the body and neck in a deep freeze overnight to induce lacquer checking.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/ffe84c48-a376-4ede-ae16-73919020d8ec/Checking+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Adding chips and dents around the edges enhanced the aged look.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/4ca471b9-4985-4e98-956f-1ed61d74c783/Checking+4.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Lacquer tends to do whatever it chooses when you induce lacquer checking, as you can see from the patination near the pickguard</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/05186f7c-5439-4245-a1ab-be5e1781af4f/Fretboard+Checking+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>Stain was used to enhance the checking lines on the body and neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/8a38437d-31f5-4eb2-b179-a2b540701e70/Headstock+Checking.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>...more checking lines...</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6024345d4e0e0a4436efea7a/07e7f097-8cdd-4f6b-9e58-ea27d17a068c/Neck+Checking.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>My Work - Tele to Esquire Conversion</image:title>
      <image:caption>I was particularly pleased with the way the lacquer checked on the back of the neck.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/publications</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/publications/my-thoughts-on-relicing</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/publications/old-wood-ancient-myths</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/publications/my-adventures-with-my-bloody-valentine</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://huwpriceguitar.com/publications/screamadelica</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2022-02-08</lastmod>
  </url>
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